We already mentioned that we bought a paper map – but what we failed to say is that the one Tim purchased covered all of Spain and Portugal. As you can imagine, that’s quite a vast area, and trying to pinpoint small sites on it has been tricky. Even a pen dot can span several miles in reality!
When it came to our next outing, we scoured the Facebook group for ideas and decided that Playa de los Cocedores sounded rather nice. It was described as:
“Playa de los Cocedores, also known as Cala Cerrada, is a very picturesque beach located in a protected natural environment. It is situated right on the Murcia-Andalusia border, close to the town of Águilas. Framed by impressive rock formations, this tranquil beach features fine golden sands, calm crystalline waters, natural pools and caves with fossil remains. It is easily accessible, with ample parking close by.”
Before bed, we placed a hopeful pen mark on the map near Águilas and went to sleep dreaming of a lovely day ahead.
The next morning, we packed our bags with everything we might need, and Sonja made tuna, mayo, and cucumber sandwiches for a picnic lunch. Once the car was loaded and we’d escaped the underground car park, we got a signal and finally entered Playa de los Cocedores into the SatNav.
“108 kilometres!”
Almost in unison, we exclaimed, “Do we really want to drive that far just for some sandstone formations that might be a disappointment?”
Sonja also remarked that she regretted having coffee before leaving – in toilet terms, 108 km equated to two stops, and in the mountainous region of Murcia, that could prove a challenge.
That’s when we remembered another option – Bolnuevo Beach, home to sandstone formations of its own:
“This amazing sight, famously known as the Ciudad Encantada, is a collection of heavily eroded sandstone formations that adorn the scenic beach of Bolnuevo in Mazarrón. Sculpted by wind and water over thousands of years, they’re considered a monument of natural interest. A visit can be perfectly combined with a gentle stroll along the beach, followed by refreshments at one of the beachside cafés.”
Bolnuevo was duly plugged into the SatNav.
“36 kilometres!”
Again, in perfect unison: “That’s more like it.”
One beach with sandstone formations must be much the same as the next, we reasoned.
Since we’d be passing through Mazarrón, Sonja wondered if we could detour via Puerto de Mazarrón, which she’d heard was lovely. The plan was set: coffee (and a comfort break) at the port, then on to Bolnuevo.
We found the port easily, the marina was a dead giveaway and even managed to park right on the seafront. Two perfect cafés con leche arrived shortly after, and we mused, as always, on how coffee in Spain is consistently excellent and so much cheaper than at home. Being of a frugal nature (and on a tight budget), these things matter and the discovery of a one-euro coin by Sonja’s chair made the experience even sweeter, effectively reducing the cost to €2.20 for both!
Inside to pay, Sonja was greeted by a caged parrot near the entrance. He chirped a cheery “¡Hola!” followed swiftly by “Hello!”, clearly concluding from Sonja’s accent that English was her native tongue.
We wandered around the marina and along the seafront, discovering that Puerto de Mazarrón was absolutely charming – sandy beaches, clear water, and even a small, empty cove that looked like paradise. Tim lamented not having brought his snorkel and flippers to Spain.
Somewhat reluctantly, we got back in the car and headed to Bolnuevo Beach, just a few kilometres away. After all, we’d come to see the “amazing, famous” sandstone sculptures said to “adorn the beach.”
Once again, poetic licence had clearly been applied. The sculptures were slightly inland, separated from the beach by a large car park, a busy main road, and several buildings. It reminded us a little of the Pyramids of Giza, often depicted as being in the desert but actually perched on the edge of bustling Cairo.
We observed the formations from the car, decided we’d seen enough, and happily excused ourselves to return to Puerto de Mazarrón, keen to reclaim that perfect little cove.
We nearly made it… but were beaten by two Spanish ladies who’d already stripped off for a swim. Experience told us they wouldn’t stay long – they had only towels, no chairs, bags, or beach mats – so we waited it out.
Soon enough, we set up our new beach chairs, and Tim’s disappointment over Bolnuevo seemed to ease considerably, perhaps helped by a lack of modesty from the pretty senoritas. Sonja noticed him pull his cap down further – no doubt for a discreet peek.
Sonja produced the tuna mayo and cucumber baguettes, which turned out to be a rare treat. “You can only eat so much cheese,” she said, something she never thought she’d admit.
We spent the rest of the afternoon on our private cove, listening to the waves lapping nearby, swimming occasionally to cool off. It was, in every way, the perfect afternoon.
On the drive home, we agreed that Puerto de Mazarrón’s little cove was our favourite beach so far – a place we’ll definitely revisit, hopefully with family in tow next time.
And yes, the tuna baguettes were the best decision of the day.
Happy days.
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